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10/7/07 It is time for more climbing trips! I will be in Europe in November, for good and long routes for sport climbing and trad. I also want to check the new bouldering areas open in Romania. The month of January is also in schedule for a training trip over in South America. I am planning a couple of runs up and down Aconcagua and maybe another peaks in the area. Thank you to my sponsors: Blue Water Ropes, La Sportiva, Omega Pacific, Marmot and Teko. 04/26/07 Due to an unfortunate situation I am back in Atlanta. I am still waiting to find out what caused me to get sick up in the mountains (not related to high altitude), but I decided to come back after 5 days of not being able to eat or drink anything and getting dizzy from dehydration. I have seen four doctors by now, including one from Atlanta, but I still don’t have an answer if I got something from the water or food. All I know for sure is that I am registered for the expedition to Lhotse next season, including an expedition for training in Patagonia. Until then, I hope to reach the other goals I have in sport climbing and bouldering. 04/06/07 Namche Bazaar Today, we arrived in Namche Bazaar, a village in the Khumbu region that is the gateway to the high Himalaya. This is the first place to acclimatize as it sits at 3440 metres (11,286 ft.). It is the major regional trading center and contains the headquarters of the Sagarmatha National Park. From here we will trek for several more days before reaching the base camp of Lhotse. 04/05/07 Arrival in Lukla I arrived in Lukla this morning (ubelievable ride in a prop plane on a tiny landing strip), and I will trek with a sherpa for the next week to get to the base camp of Lhotse. 04/04/07 Arrival in Kathmandu I arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal this morning (via Delhi, India). We fly to Lukla tomorrow (April 5th), and from there, we will make an eight day trek to base camp (same BC as Everest). 03/12/07 Mt. Lhotse (8516m / 27940feet ) expedition start April 1 through June 6 2007. The expedition is organized by Summit Climb (Dan Mazur who has led Lhotse previously as a climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks"). A special thanks to Julia (my wife), Norman Pitt and all my sponsors for their support. SPONSORS: La Sportiva, Blue Water Ropes, Omega Pacific, Marmot, Teko and REI 11/12/06 Spring 2007, Mt. Lhotse 8516m. 01/16/06 Ama Dablam expedition (slide show) schedule: Feb. 2 Buford REI 6PM-8:30PM Sponsors: LaSportiva, Omega Pacific, Blue Water Ropes, Black Diamod 01/09/06 Ama Dablam expedition (slide show) Fundraiser Party to Benefit the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. The event start at 7:30 p.m. on Friday, January 13 2006 at Concourse Athletic Club, Atlanta. Sponsors: LaSportiva, Omega Pacific, Blue Water Ropes, Black Diamod. 11/14/05 Coco and I made it home safe and are enjoying the company of our families and friends (many who were waiting for us at the airport). It was a great experience for me in the Himalayas, and I was very lucky to be there for the first time and have the chance to succeed in my first trip. Himalaya is a new beginning in mountaneering for me, and so far, it is a good start. I want to thank those again who believed in me and supported this trip (my family, friends, and sponsors: La Sportiva, Omega Pacific, Blue Water Ropes, and Black Diamond). A special thanks to Summit Climb (Dan Mazur) for helping us with the permits for the expedition, as well as all the solid advice. 11/10/05 Pictures from Ama Dablam expedition coming soon 10/26/05 We are in Lukla, Nepal right now and the weather is not good enough for flying out. So, we will stay another day and will hopefully make it out of here to Katmandu sometime tomorrow. 10/21/05 On Oct. 20th, we started at 3:00am from camp 2 (~6000m) trying to go for the summit, but had some issues with acclimation, and by the time we got to camp 3 (6350m) 8:00 am, we decided to stay there for a night. The problem was that when we started for the summit we did not take with us any sleeping pads, sleeping bags, food or extra water. So we were forced to stay without all this. We found a tent that was empty and tried to stay warm all day and all night until 8 am on Oct. 21st, when we started for the summit. Coco reached the summit 30 minutes before me and started descending when I was 50m below summit. So that means he got there by 12 pm and I summited at 12:30pm . I took a picture of myself and around for proof, and I started descending too. After an hour I was in camp 3, but we stay for another 2 -3 hours for rest. By the time we decided to go down there were some people climbing up the rope and it was difficult to go around them . Then Coco started descending and I decided that was better to stay one more night at camp 3 than to try to descend during the night. |